LIFE’S A BANQUET IN LODO

Chase away winter’s chill at hot new restaurants and veteran venues with American twists and global turns

By Lisa Perry

Escape frosty temperatures with a warm welcome and fired-up fare at LoDo restaurants. Innovative chef creations and globe-spanning cuisines hit the spot from breakfast to late-night in Denver’s favorite sports-and-entertainment district.

Organixx
1520 Blake Street, 303.825.1550
“Green” practices, nearly all-organic ingredients and entrées that max out at $10 guide healthy breakfasts and lunches. Veggie and gluten-free options dot the menu, but a pulled-pork sandwich is just one hearty, natural-meat choice perfect on a winter day. Breakfast till 11a.m. on weekdays, all day weekends for late-risers. Try multigrain pancakes with real maple syrup, or choose items to scramble with organic eggs or tofu. Lunch favorites include a hot wild-caught salmon burger with caramelized onions and “zippy” New Orleans remoulade. Or try the smoked-turkey sandwich with gingered cranberry-apple chutney and brie. Soups, sauces and dressings all made from scratch. Open daily 8 a.m.-3 p.m.

Katie Mullen’s Irish Pub & Restaurant
1550 Court Street, 303.573.0336
Not technically in LoDo, but just blocks away. The owners grew up in Ireland, operate four bars there and bring their best Emerald Isle practices downtown with an extensive restaurant menu that includes chicken, steak and pork plus seafood specialties. “It’s a grownup Irish bar experience,” says GM Susan O’Marr, and it tops Guinness sales in Denver. You’ll see judges and lawyers at lunch, downtown employees after work and business reps with clients downing a pint (with cigars whenever the patio is open). Mahogany wood and stained-glass windows augment tablecloth service in a fun, chatty atmosphere. Large-screen TVs for multiple sports-watching, including lots of golf. St. Patrick’s Day? Step-dancers, pipers and a band flown in from Ireland. Expect more than a wee bit of revelry. Open daily 11 a.m.-1:30 a.m.

8 Rivers Modern Caribbean
1550 Blake Street, 303.623.3422
Warm up in front of the fireplace in a stylish space with a menu of bold food and 59 different rums. Jerk chicken incorporates chef’s secret recipe of spices—flavor first, followed by heat. Diners new to the cuisine can try approachable entrées, others indulge in traditional fiery favorites: jerk pork medallions, curried shrimp or blackened catfish. Rum is taken to the next level with flights and in-store tastings, plus dinner-pairing recommendations from knowledgeable servers. Ambiance evokes the spirit of Bob Marley for a diverse clientele, from island natives to suburban soccer moms. Dinner nightly, lunch added in spring.

Marco’s Coal-Fired Pizzeria
2129 Larimer Street, 303.296.7000
Savor a certified Neapolitan pizza prepared by-the-book according to Italy’s highest standards using an Italian pizza-mixer and wood oven. Ingredients are top-shelf: the finest wheat flour and tomatoes grown in volcanic ash are flown in from Naples. Owner-chef Mark Dym fell in love with the product, takes pride in his restaurant and insists on meticulous preparation throughout the menu. “Coal-fired” products such as chicken wings, sandwiches and toppings use a separate charcoal cooker. Homemade limoncello is used in a marinade that takes two days to create. It’s more than just making a perfect pizza—once you’re inside Marco’s joint, you’re treated like family. Open daily.

1515 Restaurant
1515 Market Street, 303.571.0011
Contemporary American cuisine in an affordable fine-dining atmosphere fuels longtime success. Local products are supplemented by produce from the restaurant’s own rooftop greenhouse. Specialty “sous vide” entrées ensure that premium meats are vacuum-sealed and slow-cooked to perfection. Colorado buffalo melts in your mouth, lean and accompanied with blue-cheese gnocchi. Every entrée is chef-created—even classics such as coq au vin have a unique, signature slant. Desserts are all off-the-beaten-path seductions. New menu lowers entrée prices, but service remains impeccable. The 450-selection wine list has won Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence for the last nine years. Lunch Wednesday to Friday, dinner Monday to Saturday.

Primebar
1515 Arapahoe Street, 303.586.8888
From lunch till late night, Primebar delivers with a comprehensive, contemporary “American with a twist” menu and reasonable prices ($8-$24). Nosh on small plates and appetizers including sushi, flatbread sliders and signature calamari with curry-coconut marinade. Entrées include rotisserie chicken roasted in-house and hearty two-handed sandwiches.  “Urban lodge” décor is stylish and inviting within a huge space that seats 300 inside, divided into front and back areas. Shoot pool, catch a game on TVs, or hang at the long bar savoring local brews. When temperatures rise, watch 16th Street Mall antics on a large patio with comfy couches and chairs. Live music mid-week and Saturdays, open daily 11 a.m.-1 a.m.

TAG
1441 Larimer Street, 303.996.9985
Known for cutting-edge cuisine, TAG owner-chef Troy Guard was chosen as the Denver Broncos’ rep at this year’s “Taste of the NFL” bash in Fort Lauderdale. In Larimer Square he gives diners a taste of an off-duty dinner at his place. Shared plates highlight the menu, but solo entrées such as Szechuan Colorado lamb will render you selfish. Constantly changing menu features choices like a flash-seared seafood entrée with “pop rocks,” taco sushi with charred ahi and French-onion “soup” dumplings. Huge wine wall accessed with library ladders houses selections to pair with a tasty menu that colors outside the lines. Mixologists (don’t call them “bartenders”) create liquid nirvana with personal touches. The open kitchen is like hanging out in the most popular room during a party at home. Lunch Monday to Friday, dinner nightly.

Rioja
1431 Larimer Street, 303.820.2282
Rioja has topped Denver’s “best” lists for its entire five years of existence with exceptional food and service—management strives for that combo continually. The fine-dining menu features Mediterranean dishes with an emphasis on French, Italian and Spanish flavors: no expected classics, but delicious, innovative entrées inspired by regional flavors. Try Muscovy duck breast, signature tortellini with goat cheese and artichoke mousse, or a warm Brussels sprouts salad. The winter menu is full of hearty dishes alongside delicate pastas. Weekend brunch inspires a cult following for the lamb burger. One manager’s favorite dish is the meatloaf sandwich, “…and growing up I hated meatloaf.” Rioja’s cookbook comes out this year. Lunch Wednesday to Friday, dinner nightly.

Gumbo’s
1530 16th Street, 720.956.1490
It’s not about heat, but seasoning—herb-and-spice blend “warms your soul,” says management. Settle in with hot gumbo and a po’ boy sandwich, or étouffée (seafood or meat braised and smothered in sauce, served with white rice). Crowd favorite is sweet-potato catfish with honey, ham and butter glaze, served with sautéed spinach. Pistachio-crusted mahi is pan-sautéed, topped with a cream sauce of shallots and jalapenos, served with jumbo asparagus. Weekday happy hour features drink specials and $4 menu including jambalaya and barbecued shrimp. The space is casually elegant with mosaic-tile floor, white tablecloths, exposed brick, dark woods and windows. Gumbo’s loyal customers include folks who emigrated from New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina. Lunch Monday to Friday, dinner nightly.

Lisa Perry is a staff writer with
Colorado Golf Magazine